Running the air conditioning in your motorhome on a standard 110 home electrical outlet is a common question among owners. You will probably run into this scenario if you are pulling into a friend’s house or sitting in the driveway at home.
The short answer to this question is that yes, it is possible to run your air conditioning on a 110 outlet. Most experts and frequent campers agree that if you have your A/C plugged in like this, you should not have anything else plugged in at the same time.
Now, there is more to running your air conditioning unit on a 110 circuit than just pulling up and plugging into the nearest outlet. In my research, I have found that there are several factors to consider before you plug in.
Before plugging in, you should make yourself aware of how RV electricity works.
There are two types of currents used to run electricity. The first is AC, or alternating current, and the other is DC, which means direct current. Typically, homes run on AC and vehicles will run on DC. Luckily, most RVs come standard with both DC and a system to hook up to AC, such as when you are plugging into a home outlet.
Most RVs happen to come equipped with a 12-volt house battery which is what is necessary to run DC. This battery charges while the vehicle’s alternator is running. However, when parked you will need to charge this battery, or batteries if you choose to go with 2 six-volt batteries instead of the larger 12-volt option, either by solar power or by hooking up to an AC outlet.
Interestingly, most RVs come outfitted with a 120-volt shore power system. What does this mean in terms of hooking up to your household electricity? Several things come to mind.
First things first, you need to know that a typical household electric socket is a 15-amp socket. Occasionally you will see a 20-amp socket, but for the most part a 110-circuit is going to give you roughly 15-amps.
You can plug your RV into one of these circuits, however, you will not get the full 30 amps from your household electric. Thus, if you want to run your air conditioner from a household outlet, you will need to do a couple of things:
If possible, the best choice is the dogbone adapter as the longer your extension cord, also referred to as run, the more you tax the circuit, making it more likely to trip the home’s breaker.
Also of Interest: Can A 2000 Watt Generator Run An A/C?
On average, your RV’s roof air conditioner pulls 12-16 amps. So, you can see why the a/c is the only thing that should be running while plugged in. Another thing to keep in mind is that when the a/c kicks in, it will draw up to 7 times the number of amps than it does while just running normally. Now you know why you want to run the a/c on the lowest setting possible. It is to avoid the surge that happens when your air conditioning kicks in and risks damage to your RV, not to mention the home’s circuit breakers.
An alternate way of doing this is to install something called an easy start or a soft starter. You can see more from this video:
If you have a 50-amp RV, then you will need a 50-amp adapter in order to hook up to the house electrical system. While it is possible, you should still use caution when doing so.
You will still only have 15 amps available to you from the house circuit. Therefore, you need the 2 separate adapters. You need to step down from 50-amp to a 30-amp, then step further down from the 30-amp down to the household 15-amp breaker.
The process of hooking up a 50-amp service is the same as hooking up a 30-amp service. The only difference is that you will need an extra dogbone adapter that will allow you to plug in to a 50-amp then subsequently plug that into the 30-amp adapter.
The same rules apply here as they do with the 30-amp service. You want to run nothing but the air conditioning unit and be sure to use the proper extension cord of the right length to avoid the extra heat generated from the run. The cord should be no less than a 10-gauge exterior extension cord.
Also, of Interest:
Yep, you sure can. Though, you will need to make sure you keep a good eye on your RV’s house batteries as the electrolytes can become depleted if left unchecked. It is a good idea to check them at least once a month, but more often is better, and add distilled water if they are low, otherwise you could be facing extensive damages.
You will also want to make sure that none of your 120-volt appliances are running if you are not using the camper while being plugged in. This can cause damage to your RV as well as deplete the house batteries which are expensive to replace, especially when the damage is easy to avoid.
No, you can’t. Your RV must have house batteries of at least 12-volts in one form or another, whether one single battery or by using 2 six-volt batteries together.
It is necessary for your house battery system to be available and charged when you hook up to a shore system, i.e. your house. The reason for this is that the house batteries will act as sort of a backup system if your shore power goes out. If the backup system has no charge and the shore system starts to short out, there will be no reserve to draw from.
Therefore, it is important to keep watch on your house batteries. Never let them go dry and be sure to clean off any corrosion you may see forming on the outside of the batteries. This can cause uneven wear on the batteries which means the life of the battery is in jeopardy.
Yes, you can run your RV on solar power. However, it is not very practical, and it is very expensive. You will need a lot of equipment to turn the solar energy into usable electricity. Another thing to consider with solar energy is the size of your rig. The larger the rig, the more electricity you need to run the a/c, which means the more solar panels and equipment needed to run it.
What happens if your camper doesn’t have enough room to carry the number of solar panels needed to run the a/c?
A caveat: it will be a good thing to remember that we are only talking about the air conditioning now, no use of any other electricity is being considered. If your camper doesn’t have enough surface room to handle the solar array needed, then this isn’t going to be an option for you.
There are a lot of positive things about solar power, as well. There is low maintenance once installed and if you happen to park where it is sunny all the time, you will be able to garner a lot of energy this way. This is one of those occasions when you must decide for yourself and your family, whether solar is the way for you to go.
Well, this depends on the size of the inverter and the size of the battery banks plus the necessary batteries required to support it. Since most RV AC units are about 1500 watts you would need to be able to have an inverter that can produce at least that type of power. The battery bank would need to lithium batteries to produce the need power to start and run the unit. Plus some method, solar panels, to recharge or top up the additional power draw from the batteries.
The use of a soft start would also be needed to reduce the initial power draw. (I mentioned that the initial start of an AC can have a draw of up to 7x the running power) There is also a chance you could cause damage to your electrical system due to the power draw to do this, so it is not advisable. If you wanted to try it out or just wanted to have a look at this video below.
Unsure about what an inverter does or how it works, head over and read this article right here for more information.
In summary, yes, it is possible to run both a 30-amp and a 50-amp RV on house electric. However, you must remember that by doing it this way, you can only run your air conditioning unit.
A far more practical solution would be to have an electrician come out and set you up with a 30- or 50-amp outlet outside your home. This way you can enjoy every convenience of your RV right out the back door.
Unfortunately, this may not be a possibility in some locations depending on your local zoning laws, but if the service is available in your area, it would be a good idea to have it set up, especially if you are planning to stay parked at home for some time.